Roses Again

Perfumers forever state that a well-made perfume has a synthetic frame, ultimately fleshed out with essentials, absolutes, and enfleurages, each derived from natural ingredients. I have nothing against aroma chemicals since most of the time they are the same compounds that occur in the flowers anyway. (This isn’t completely true; some molecules are mirror-images of their natural counterparts.) The agreed wisdom is that aroma chemicals persist more on the skin (they do this best when they form accords) than do naturals. This doesn’t make a whole lot of sense. If the chemicals are the same compounds found in the naturals, one would assume they’d last the same amount of time. Empirically, however, it does seem to be true—to make most perfumes persistent enough, you need isolated compounds, synthetic or otherwise.

To go about learning how to make this chemical frame, I’m using charts from one of my favorite perfume books, by Stephan Jellinek and Robert Calkin from the early 1990s. In one section of the book (which I’ve copied to avoid wearing the book out) there is a list of “compounding notes” for certain well-known flowers. For example, under rose, in a left column is a list under “Basic Formula.” Listed on the right column are “Selected Variants and Modifiers.” While this sounds like giving away the game, keep in mind that no quantities are given. You must smell your way through the array until you get to a rose.

The first chemical listed is phenylethyl alcohol. This isn’t surprising since phenylethyl alcohol smells just like roses. (not really; if you hold it next to a real rose, it smells “chemical” and flat and has no complexity). So, I start with a base of 30 drops of that (why not?). The next chemical is citronellol.  I added about 10 drops of that until it came into balance with the phenylethyl alcohol. I never would have thought of citronellol as being part of a rose’s fragrance—it’s used to repel mosquitos. Geranyl acetate, another nuance, is added next. I continued in this way, until I had put together 12 aroma chemicals. The result did, in fact, smell like a rose, if rather a clumsy one. It was a bit too green and sour. The two are separate in my mind. Green is of green things like crisp sugar snap peas snapped open (galbanum and violet leaf smell this way) and instantly sniffed. Sour is something tangy like clary sage.

After establishing the basic (clumsy) rose, I moved on to the variants and modifiers. Next to phenylethyl alcohol, Jellinek recommends pheylethyl acetate, “phenylethyl esters,” and phenoxyethyl isobutyrate. Keep in mind that an ester is the result of an alcohol combining with a carboxylic acid. For example, ethyl alcohol and acetic acid, when combined under the right conditions, form ethyl acetate, which has an aroma all its own. It’s good to keep this in mind when trying to figure out which aroma compound might work. If you’re working with linalool, for example, try linalool acetate. It has a freshness and a naturalness that augments and balances linalool itself.  

Under “Other rose chemicals,” we find “damascones.” There is more than one, each with its own nuances, but the gist is fruitiness. They’re beautiful molecules that add a lovely freshness to a blend, provided they are used very discretely. A drop too much can ruin an experiment.

I tried something else. I added naturals to back up some of the compounds. I added geranium to geraniol, neroli to nerol, clove to eugenol, and orris (iris root) to ionone alpha (a violet-like compound) to give complexity and nuance.

At the very bottom of the list is an array of recommended naturals. Many are surprising in a rose: two kinds of chamomile, palmarosa (which smells like tarragon), carrot seed, guaiacwood, sandalwood, iris (orris), mimosa and benzoin siam.  By adding a drop here or there, the rose moves in one direction or the other. Carrot seed is surprisingly effective in bringing out “rosiness.”

I did find it surprising that Jellinek doesn’t mention animal ingredients as he does for the other flowers. Perhaps it is because they distract from the rose itself, but I would certainly like to experiment with civet, ambergris, and musk.

Finally, I added a drop of 10-percent red rose otto. Since I was working with 10-percent tinctures, this seemed an appropriate starting point to add to a solution of about 200 drops. I figured I’d work up to four percent rose otto since this was the percentage typically used in perfumes up through the 1950s. Wrong. Very wrong. Rose otto is far more powerful than an absolute. My one drop transformed the whole thing. My clumsy rose, which now contained almost 40 ingredients, sparkled with subtle nuance. While no masterpiece, it had become a real perfume. It lasted on the skin at least a little while (an hour?); rose otto just evaporates. 

Working with this list has familiarized me with more aroma chemicals and has given me insight into the relationships between them. I want to remember enough of them so I can think in them and construct my own florals, either duplications of natural flowers or fantasies of non-existent things.

From Perfumery: Practice and Principles by Robert R. Calkin and J. Stephan Jellinek, published by John Wiley.

ROSE__COMPOUNDING NOTES

Basic Formula                                                        Selected Variants and Modifiers
Phenylethyl alcohol and esters
              Phenylethyl alcohol                                Phenylethyl acetate
                                                                                  Phenylethyl esters
                                                                                  Phenoxyethyl isobutyrate
Rose alcohols and esters
              Citronellol                                                 Rhodinol          
                                                                                 Geraniol
                                                                                  Nerol
              Geranyl acetate                                       Geranyl esters
                                                                                  Citronellyl esters
                                                                                  Tetrahydrogeraniol
                                                                                  Rholiate
Other rose chemicals
Rose oxides
                                                                                  Isodamascones
                                                                                  Damascones
                                                                                  Orthomethoxy benzyl ethyl ether
Floral modifiers
              Ionone alpha                                            Beta ionone
                                                                                  Linalool
                                                                                  Lyral
                                                                                  Hedione
Green notes
              Phenylacetaldehyde                               Phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal
                                                                                  Methyl heptine carbonate
                                                                                  Violet leaf absolute
                                                                                  Hivertal
                                                                                  Isocyclocitral
                                                                                  Nonadienal
                                                                                  Methyl cyclo citrone
                                                                                  Vertral
Aldehydic notes
              Aldehyde C11 undecylenic                    Aldehyde C8
                                                                                  Aldehyde C9
                                                                                  Rosalva
                                                                                  Alcohol C10
                                                                                  Muguet aldehydes
Citrus notes
                                                                                  Citral
                                                                                  Geranyl nitrile
                                                                                  Agrunitile
Spicy notes
                                                                                  Eugenol
                                                                                  Clove
                                                                                  Cinnamon
                                                                                  Pepper
Carbinols and their esters
              Rosatol                                                      Phenylethyl dimethyl carbinol
                                                                                  Dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate
                                                                                  Dimethyl benzyl carbonyl butyrate
Honey notes
              Ethyl phenylacetate                                Methyl phenylacetate
                                                                                  Citronellyl phenylacetate
                                                                                  Eugenyl phenylacetate
                                                                                  Phenyletheyl phenylacetate
                                                                                  Phenylacetic acid
                                                                                  Cire d’abeille absolute
Additional base notes
                                                                                  Diphenyl oxide
                                                                                  Cassione
                                                                                  Frambinone
                                                                                  Musk T
                                                                                  Ambrettolide
Naturals
              Geranium                                                   Camomile bleue
                                                                                  Camomile Roman
                                                                                  Palmarosa
                                                                                  Carrot seed
                                                                                  Guaiacwood
                                                                                  Sandalwood
                                                                                  Iris concete
                                                                                  Mimosa absolute
                                                                                  Benzoin Siam
Blenders
                                                                                  Nerolidol
                                                                                  Farnesol
 

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