Top Notes

Top notes—the most volatile and evanescent compounds in a perfume—give an immediate impression and help sell the product. Whether you like them or not, the top notes in today’s fragrances are incredibly smooth. However, the top notes may not smell like the heart...

Sandalwood III: Faking It, Continued

I want to see how Serge Lutens solves the problems of longevity and projection in his fabulous perfume, Iris Silver Mist. The opening iris accord is much like mine and, like mine, evaporates sooner than I, and apparently, he, would like. Lutens creates another series...

Sandalwood: Faking It

Let’s say, right off the bat, that sandalwood can’t be replicated accurately. Perfumers have been trying for centuries and, now that the real oil has gotten so expensive, the effort has accelerated. Not knowing better, making a viable sandalwood was my first effort at...

Power and Presence

Sometimes, my experiments don’t project enough, or fade too soon, or don’t have enough power. I get discouraged. But my recent seminar with Mandy Aftel has given me pause. For her, the sensual interplay of complex natural ingredients is more important than the ability...

Favorite Books VI

A favorite book of mine, Perfumery: The Psychology and Biology of Fragrance, edited by Steve Van Toller and George H. Dodd, is a rather technical tome that dwells mostly on the relationship between perfume and personality. In one chapter, by Mensing and Beck, the...