Musk in Perfumery

There are two main kinds of musk: natural and synthetic. Natural musk comes from a small Himalayan deer which is now endangered. I remember my mother reeking of it, but that was the 1950s.  It may be the most delectable smell that exists.  In later decades, natural...

Marine Aromas: The Smell of the Sea

I’ve always wanted to smell like the beach, not a crowded beach with its overtones of suntan lotion and saltwater on the skin, but a solitary beach with a scent like steamed mussels and freshly cracked oysters. On top of this irresistible sea-fresh quality, I would...

Pheromones: Sex, Scent and Attraction

Much has been made of a perfume’s ability to induce sexual feelings and even to draw us to the person wearing it. While these claims have been made, few people I’ve spoken with seem to share this view and perfumes, while they can be delightful, are rarely thought of...

Oud Again

My oud source has again run out—there seems to be no more aku akira—so I’ve had to reformulate using new ouds. I ordered 14 different oud samples and tested them all for balance and longevity. I’m now using Malaysian oud, a Hindi, and another one of uncertain origin....

Fooling Around with Jasmine

I’ve been playing a new game: I reconstruct flowers, working with a list of essential oils, absolutes, and aroma compounds, that gives no quantities. The challenge is to balance the amounts of these ingredients to come up with a viable replica of the flower at hand....

Blending Day for Ambergris

It takes many months, sometimes years, to develop a new perfume. When I finally decided to create Brooklyn Perfume Company’s Ambergris, I went through my collection of about 800 odoriferous substances and selected anything that smelled like the ocean or had facets of...