by Jim Peterson | Jun 28, 2020 | Uncategorized
An Introduction to Perfumery dedicates an individual page to a wide selection of naturals and synthetics. Each page starts with a measure of “Odor Intensity” which is on a scale of zero to six. In the center of the page is a big diagram of the molecule. To the right,...
by Jim Peterson | Jun 28, 2020 | Uncategorized
First published in 1994, An Introduction to Perfumery by Tony Curtis and David Williams, is a perfumer’s classic. Much of the large volume (778 pages) is dedicated to the business of large perfume companies. This holds little interest for me since Brooklyn Perfume...
by Jim Peterson | Jun 28, 2020 | Uncategorized
Dr. Jellinek leads us into a description of 14 aroma chemicals. Some are less important than others—they are familiar compounds and have been much written about—but I did find a couple of interesting comments. One entry is about l-citronellol. Citronellol is a classic...
by Jim Peterson | Jun 28, 2020 | Uncategorized
The Practice of Modern Perfumery continues its discussion of the odor wheel. As we’ve seen, the lines between each of the points represent sultry, fresh, exalting, or soothing odor effects, while those points that are in opposition–anti-erogenic versus erogenic,...
by Jim Peterson | Jun 28, 2020 | Uncategorized
While The Practice of Modern Perfumery offers a number of formulas, it’s the incidental stuff I find most exciting. Author Dr. Paul Jellinek categorizes aromas into four groups: Animal (fatty; waxy; sweaty; putrid)Flowers and balsamsTerpenes and camphors...
by Jim Peterson | Jun 28, 2020 | Uncategorized
When I began blending perfumes, I added ingredients, drop by drop, into small vials. The results were getting skewed because the test strips were absorbing too much. If I were starting out with only a few drops, the absorption of a single drop was enough to shift the...
by Jim Peterson | Jun 28, 2020 | Uncategorized
Brooklyn Perfume Company released its line of four eaux de parfum in 2014. The reception, was enthusiastic. Several who reviewed the perfumes said they were “original.” One said “I’m at a loss for words” and declared there were two aphrodisiacs in his life: BPC’s Oud...
by Jim Peterson | Jun 28, 2020 | Uncategorized
Para Cresols smell like the creosote painted on a pier’s supports. While this sounds weird, cresols are essential for some flower scents, especially narcissus and lily. Don’t be too perplexed by the use of both “cresol” and “cresyl.” There is a difference–it...
by Jim Peterson | Jun 28, 2020 | Uncategorized
Whenever a new obsession strikes, I get online and buy every relevant book I can find. In perfumery, this isn’t easy. There aren’t many books to begin with and those that do exist are often outdated or too technical. There are a million aromatherapy books. These books...
by Jim Peterson | Jun 28, 2020 | Uncategorized
Iris flowers have very little scent. The secret is in the roots, which must be aged for five years to bring out their aroma. Once ground into a fine powder, the roots are distilled to yield a small amount of aromatic “butter.” Perfumers call this “orris butter.” Orris...
