Shalimar: The Ambreine accord

Perfumers work with a seemingly infinite number of ingredients all of which need to be memorized (at least in theory). In addition to these individual elements—chemicals, absolutes, and essential oils—are accords, which are combinations of more than one ingredient...

The Grossman Accord

One of the 20th Century’s greatest perfumes, Trésor, was created by Sophia Grojsman, whose name is forever associated with an accord. The Grojsman accord, based on only four ingredients: two parts iso e super or sylvamber, two parts hedione, one part methyl ionone,...

Hedione

While I’m astonished by the beauty of natural products, I’ve never been against using something that comes out of a lab. Though natural substances contain an infinity of compounds and so-called chemicals only one, I’ve never hesitated to use something that smells...

Patchouli

Not all of my readers will remember the days when patchouli was almost ubiquitous among young people. It was impossible to go to a rock concert without being overwhelmed by thick, dense wafts of the stuff. Long after, I now know that patchouli is a common ingredient...

Magnolia

I’d never thought much about magnolia, until the giant tree next door bloomed in the early spring. While the flowers’ aroma was subtle, I noticed how the beautiful floral aspects were underlined with a kind of earthy decay, as though fall were already here. ...