Iris Synthetics

Black Iris is making progress, but new problems keep coming up. Should the perfume replicate the smell of orris, the authentic aroma of iris root, or peoples’ fantasy of it? I fear few people recognize the smell of orris and my hard work and extravagance may be for...

The Sexuality of Perfume

In the 1970s, when it was still manageable for someone with a minuscule income to drink the world’s greatest wines, I was invited into a group of professional wine connoisseurs who met every week to drink rare and otherworldly vintages. At the time (and presumably...

A Berkeley Weekend with Mandy Aftel V

At the end of day two, Mandy gave us our final assignment. We were to take two—only two—ingredients to explore together and use them as the basis for a new perfume. I went home (I’m staying at my brother’s, right up the hill) and as I stared at the sunset behind the...

A Berkeley Weekend with Mandy Aftel IV

Once she demonstrated this approach, she set us loose. She’s incredibly generous with her ingredients as I realized while measuring out drops of red champaka absolute into my mixture. The assignment was to construct a fragrance. We were allowed up to three different...

A Berkeley Weekend with Mandy Aftel III

On day two, things got even more exciting. Mandy introduced a system I had never seen before and that completely blew my mind. She works by adding drops of fully-concentrated absolutes or essential oils to five milliliters of ethanol. She starts out with only two...